The Mango Vol 1 Issue 6

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Photo by Red Charlie info@mango-mag.com

Letter from the Publisher

Marcel Wanders, the world-famous Dutch designer and art director at Powerhouse Studio in Amsterdam, took words right out of my mouth when he said: I collect memories. I look for opportunities to try new things, go to new places, and meet new people all the time. I tried a new thing on one of my trips to Jamaica, parasailing. More on that in a minute. My latest professional new thing is The Mango . As we wind up our first year of publishing this exciting, ad-free, 68-page, all color, high quality magazine, I reflect positively on having taken a chance to try this new thing. I am going to a new place and meeting new people very soon. What a privilege it is to be traveling to Key West for Meeting of the Minds 2021. And the most exciting part is that I will be, finally, connecting in person with so many folks who have not only been some of our most avid readers this first year, but also treasured advisors and friends. Eric Babin, Colleen Fuchs and Rob Hill to name a few. Rob was instrumental in developing and guiding our production of the MOTM 2021 Program and Convention Guide . Bob Haslett and Vinnie and Sarah LaSorsa might not be in Key West, so I’ll shake their hands virtually right here on this page. Parasailing in Jamaica was a genuine adrenaline rush. It doesn’t seem like it’s going to be that high from the ground, but once up there, oh lord. Cruise ships look like toy boats, and I was especially thankful that I was sailing and not free-falling! One big surprise is the mountainous terrain of Jamaica. I remember thinking it was akin to West Virginia have been dropped into the Caribbean. But, I knew I was definitely not very near The Mountain State when I strolled the most beautiful beaches offering the warmest, softest sand between my toes. I can’t really think about Jamaica without thinking about Bob Marley. His music

has stood the test of time. He created a sound that connected with people who often didn’t really comprehend what he was singing about. We mostly relate his music to a chill-Caribbean- beach vibe, but his lyrics were also complicated and filled with heavy subject matter about oppression and conflict. I guess those lyrics mirror the life of a Jamaican during his time. But Bob always made time for love (his 11 children proves it) and reminded us: Don’t worry about a thing….because every little thing…is gonna be alright. Thank you e.v.e.r.y.o.n.e. for a wonderful 2021, along with the enthusiasm to dance into 2022 with confidence and courage and, as often as possible, in bare feet.

Phillip Vaught

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INSIDE

DESTINATION Aruba 8 PIRATE LORE Hayreddin Barbarossa 18

RECIPES Beach Drinks 21

TROPICAL ARTIST Nancy Blauers 22

BACKYARD TIKI BAR Winter Survival with Rich Barnes 28 BOAT PROFILE Endeavour 48 Power Catamaran 34

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November / December 2021

MICHAEL HOLLY A Parrothead Hall of Famer 38

TROP ROCK SPOTLIGHT Jerry Diaz 50 EXPLORING Hidden Secrets of the Lowcountry 44 IN THE CARRIBEAN The Rhythm of Jamaica 54 A SLICE OF PARADISE Port Aransas 60

DEEP TRACKS Please Bypass This Heart 66

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Volume 1 I ssue 6

MANGO-MAG.COM info@mango-mag.com

PUBLISHER Phillip Vaught Country Media, Inc. P.O.Box A Rich Creek, VA 24147 MANAGING EDITOR Joanne M. Anderson WRITERS Emily Alberts Joanne Anderson Kameron Bryant Johnny Cate Krisha Chachra Jo Clark Karl Kazaks Nancy Moseley Cindy Muir

PHOTOGRAPHERS Kristie Lea Photography Laura’s Focus Photography

Corey Agopian Olivier Guillard Red Charlie Alexandra Tran

The Mango © 2021 Country Media, Inc. This publication is not affiliated with Jimmy Buffett or the Margaritaville companies. Features do not represent an endorsement by this publication. Content cannot be reproduced without written consent from Country Media, Inc. All rights reserved.

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A

s mentioned in my last letter here, I looked for water to cross on the 2-hour battlefield trail ride at Gettysburg National Military Park. There were two gulches about two inches wide, so it was more of a step-across than walk-through trickle of water. Hickory Hollow Farm has the greatest horses and the best wranglers, and the most knowledgeable battlefield guide rides along as you wear a receiver and ear piece to hear his comprehensive presentation. The shops downtown in Gettysburg are some of the best gift shops for very nice, unusual merchandise (and I’ve been to a lot of gift shops!). Do not miss the Gettysburg National Military Park Museum and Visitor Center for its movie, cyclorama and museum. My final sales pitch for Gettysburg is stay at Baladerry Inn for cleanliness, excellence, quiet, affordable and convenient to everything. On the beach front, Jo Clark’s comprehensive article on Aruba makes me want to pack a bag and book a flight. Thanks, Jo. I have a standing invitation to a friend’s home in Jamaica. Thanks, Kevin. And my fantastic sod farmer sister-in-law, Mary, escapes Minnesota winters in Corpus Christi, not far at all from Port Aransas, profiled herein by new-to-Mango writer Cindy Muir. Welcome aboard, Cindy. This first full year of The Mango has been an eye-opening experience for this simple country girl from

Vermont, the only land-locked New England state. This is not to say I had not heard of trop rock and reggae or sat under palm trees, gotten pulled in and tossed about by an ocean undertow and gathered sea shells on Sanibel Island. I was, however, fairly uneducated in the particulars of musical instruments and the music that seriously can transport someone to a tropical clime. I took it with a grain of salt, but no more. The beat, the rhythm, the uke and steel drums, congas, marimbas and vibraphones with acoustic guitars and singer-songwriters who have the gifts of storytelling and carrying a tune really can take me away. You can bet when the snow flies on my small farm, I’ll heat up the tea kettle, maybe on top of my all- new, not-yet-used pellet stove, close my eyes and blast a little trop rock. I’ll find some sand, some sun, some water and a palm tree and park my mind for a little while. When I open my eyes to winter ’s reality, well, I’ll put my feet into some very fine Muck® Boots and bundle up for hauling out hay or filling a winterized [aka heated] water tank. And I will be happy because … [drum roll] … I like winter. Ask me exactly how much I like winter around the middle of March. I am writing this on a beautiful, blue sky, sunny, crispy, fall afternoon with two more months of trail riding, pumpkins, scarecrows, mums and all the charm of autumn.

Joanne M. Anderson

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Wants to be Your Happy Place! Aruba

Text by Jo Clark Photography by David Cohen, Pravin Patel and Dean Singleton

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A Aruba “One Happy Island” is known for pristine white sand, clear blue water, cooling trade winds, and having the most sunny days in the Caribbean. What’s not to love? It is little wonder that Aruba boasts the highest return-visitor rate in the Caribbean. They advertise: “Find Your Happy Place” - I think I just did! Aruba is an independent country but a part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Located off the coast of Venezuela, it has about 100,000 inhabitants and is outside the hurricane zone. Daytime temperatures are a near constant 86º and drop to 76º at night. Tourists’ Stories Dean and Janie Singleton visited Aruba during a cruise. He recalls: “I was pleasantly surprised…it’s not a tropical island like I thought. Aruba turned out to be a volcanic island with rough coastline on the north and beautiful beaches.” After eight cruises,

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a stop at “One Happy Island.” Eleven hours on this beautiful island, and they were hooked. Brenda knew David dreamed of a destination wedding. When she saw the sun setting behind the Riu Palace Hotel, a plan was born. A year later, the wedding party was staying at Riu Palace, and the couple said their sunset “I do’s” at the private Divi Phoenix beach next door. You may be thinking that the Cohens are living their happily ever after. They are, but it took FIVE weddings! A thing called “regulations” got in the way. Aruba required a civil ceremony, but a mistake on the paperwork rendered the first one null. Wedding Two was the beautiful beach wedding of their dreams, only

this was the first beach that made him want to take a dip in the saltwater. And he warns: “I recommend taking your phone out of your swimsuit pocket!” Pravin Patel confided he wanted to escape the cold Atlanta weather. He discovered that Renaissance Aruba Resort [all-inclusive] had a separate, child-free section. No kids and a private beach! A direct flight from Atlanta, and he was soaking up the rays on Flamingo Beach. Tourists/Future Residents The Cohens’ first visit to Aruba was not by choice. They were on their first cruise, which made

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Beach Life

to return home to find New York did not recognize Aruba’s marriage license. Wedding Three encountered a glitch and Wedding Four at Wheatfield Town Hall corrected that. Finally, Wedding Five was a hometown wedding and celebration with their friends. “Our favorite place is Aruba. We were married there, bought a house, and plan to start a bar,” David relates. Maybe you already know the Cohens—they were featured on HGTV’s House Hunters International’s episode “Beach Bar in Paradise.” And, yes, as soon as the couple is living on island time, The Mango readers are invited to visit The Floating Parrot Aruba. Mention this article, and the first drink is on David. Cheers!

Aruba offers something for everyone. Luxury resorts line beaches where a variety of watersports are available. Limestone cliffs create private coves like Baby Beach. Mangel Halto offers snorkeling among delicate reefs in shallow water. Brenda Cohen loves the peacefulness of Aruba. She says the locals make you feel welcome like you are at home. “They will help you make the most of your vacation—whatever that looks like, you can have it.” Eagle Beach is the third place winner of Trip Advisor’s Best Beach in the World. It is home to two

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fofoti trees that make it the most photographed location in Aruba. Even sea turtles prefer Eagle Beach. Four species nest in Aruba, the majority on Eagle Beach. Two-mile-long Palm Beach boasts palms, bars, casinos, nightlife, restaurants and shops. You have your pick of water sports kiosks and hotels or luxury resorts. Palm Beach also offers all-inclusive resorts and is home to Aruba’s largest shopping malls, cinemas, water fountain shows, spas and even bowling. The private Flamingo Beach is available to guests of Renaissance Aruba Resort. Pink flamingos wander the beach greeting guests—their bright pink contrasts with aqua water and white sand for postcard- worthy photographs.

If you want an “all-over tan,” there are clothing- optional beaches on either Renaissance Island or De Palm Island. This is the European influence you find on the island. There is a ferry to De Palm, just 5 miles from Aruba’s shore. They say it is the place for pristine snorkeling. Don’t Want to Just Sit on the Beach? You’re in luck! There is so much more to Aruba than beaches in the way of high-energy or low-energy activities on water or land. You can sign up for scuba lessons, take out a catamaran, go snorkeling, try wind or kite surfing, cliff jumping for the super daring, or try

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your luck at deep-sea fishing.

Tours of the island are available by bus, jeep and horseback. You can also rent a jeep, mountain bike or ATV and explore at your own pace. There are picturesque vistas, natural bridges, historical places and museums. Since the island is only 19 miles long and 5 miles wide, it is easy to explore without getting lost. When asked about “little-known places,” David Cohen chuckles. “We used to enjoy a secret pool, but it’s been discovered.” His insider tips: Visit the glass factory—they give demonstrations and have a restaurant and bar. It is on the road to the donkey sanctuary (detour!) and the gold mines. He has a

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tip for photographers: “Go to the top of Hooiberg Mountain—you can see Venezuela on a clear day!” An added bonus? There is always a festival: The Flip-flop Festival of trop-rock music, Carnival in February, Soul Festival and Beach Tennis Tournament (think aggressive badminton), to name a few. Happy Tummies

Surrounded by water, there is seafood, and lots of it, like fresh mahi-mahi, red snapper and barracuda. Add rice and creole seasoning for the delicious taste of the islands, a blend of Latin and African flavors. And with over 250 restaurants, everyone can find foods to their liking, from local favorites to international delights. Another unique thing to do is eat dinner at a

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table in the water—at sunset, of course! There is a unique food in Aruba known as pastechi. It is a deep-fried pastry stuffed with cheeses and meats. Order one at a local bakery, or get a dozen for the day. Imbibers will delight in downing ice-cold Aruba Aribas on the beach. Aribas are made with Coecoei, a local liquor, shaken with vodka, rum, banana, orange, cranberry and pineapple. Oh my! Aruba’s Agriculture and Beauty Aruba’s primary agricultural product is aloe vera (who knew?). If you’ve used aloe on a sunburn, you may have a little bit of Aruba in your medicine cabinet. Have you ever wondered why cashews are so expensive? I think I’ve figured it out. Look at the photo where Janie Singleton is holding the dark green pod. That little “stem” beside her thumb is the casing for

a cashew. What a lot of work to get these little gems ready for market! Numerous natural bridges in the area grace the shoreline. One of the last bridges collapsed a few years ago, so you are no longer allowed to walk over them, but the photo op is lovely just the same. Here Comes the Bride Aruba is famous for destination weddings. Pravin Patel says that he was only there seven days and saw two weddings held at Renaissance. A wedding— or honeymoon—in Aruba would add exotic romance to your big day. Exchange your vows on the beach at sunset or in a tropical garden. But do your homework in advance so you don’t require five ceremonies! Jo Clark is a self-proclaimed beach bum. She moved to the Grand Strand after shoveling over 50 inches of snow during one winter in Snowville, Virginia!

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Do Your Research Before You Go

I’m ready—how do I get there? Flight to Queen Beatrix International Airport (AUA) in Oranjestad What papers do I need? Passport; Embarkation/Disembarkation card (ED-card); valid return ticket; check for update on covid requirements if any Where can I stay? Hotels, resorts, all-inclusives, apartments, vacation villas, condos, timeshare Can I drink the water? Yes! Tap water is distilled in a saltwater desalination plant and meets the highest standards of the W.H.O. What if I have an emergency? Dial 911. Police at 100. A well-equipped hospital near Eagle Beach

What about money? Currency is Aruban florin. Dollars are widely accepted. Exchange rate: 1.75-1.80 florin for 1 U.S. dollar. Do I tip? Not obligatory, some establishments add 10 to 15 percent to bill. Extra can be added for exemplary service. Shopping Most stores close after 6 p.m. and on Sunday. Grocery stores open Sunday afternoons. What time is it? Atlantic Time Zone (Eastern Standard); Daylight Saving Time not observed • Weather tip: More rain falls October- January

Island treasures you should see: • Alto Vista Chapel, 1750s, known as “Pilgrim’s Church” • 1872 smelting works ruins at Bushiribana, used for gold mining • Balashi Beer factory tours • 90-foot California Lighthouse, 1914, named after steamship California, wrecked in 1891 • Santa Anna Church, 1770s, known for its carved oak altar • Fort Zoutman, oldest building of 1796 Dutch settlement, built for protection from pirates and enemies

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Hayreddin Barbarossa

Text by Emily K. Alberts

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Corsairs with Coarse Hairs?

In Disney’s Pirates of the Caribbean , you may recall the character of Hector Barbossa. The film portrays Barbossa as a villainous, greedy man – killing people for his own bounty. However, the true Barbarossa pirate [with an extra “bar” in the name] who inspired this antagonist was a much different man. In fact, he was one of the Ottoman Empire’s greatest heroes of all time. His name was Hayreddin Barbarossa -- a.k.a. Khayr al-Din, a.k.a. Khiḍr, a.k.a. Khizir, a.k.a. Hizir…which kind of sounds like Hector… ok NOW we get it, Disney! The youngest of four brothers, Hayreddin was born on the island of Lesbos in what is now Greece, but at the time was under Turkish rule. It was his eldest brother, Aruj, who inspired the family’s tell-tale moniker, “Barbarossa” (Italian for “red beard”) with his bright, fiery-orange beard. Hayreddin’s facial hair was more of an auburn- brown tone. The four bearded brothers founded the power of the Barbary “corsairs” in the 1500s, attacking Christian shipping and coastal towns along the Mediterranean. As the term buccaneer is specific to a privateer of the Caribbean and Pacific coast of Central America, a corsair is a privateer of the Barbary Coast, especially the Mediterranean. Though all four brothers initially worked as sailors and engaged in marine affairs and international sea trade, they eventually became privateers to neutralize the privateering of the Knights of St. John, based on the island of Rhodes. The eldest, Aruj, is famous for taking over Algiers from Spain, while younger Hayreddin helped Muslims fight against Christian rule along the Barbary Coast. Their naval victories secured

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Ottoman dominance over the Mediterranean during the mid-16th century. Aruj began his career by attacking Aegean ships from his home island of Lesbos. After being freed from slavery to the Knights of Rhodes by Egyptian forces, he began working with his brother Hayreddin out of the port of Alexandria with ships provided by the local ruler. The red-bearded Barbarossa brothers were two of the most feared pirates of the 1500s, and Hayreddin would eventually become the most feared Ottoman Chief Admiral of the entire 16th century. During 1512, Aruj was leading charge against a Spanish stronghold and had his left arm blown off by a cannon. He was rushed to Tunis for surgery with his arm in a tourniquet. Hayreddin led his 11 ships back and happened to capture a large Genoese ship along the way, teeming with jewelry and treasures. The Genoese Senate immediately dispatched a squadron of 12 large galleys to take care of Aruj and company. After many years of ongoing, violent battles with Spanish soldiers, Algiers fell to Spain in 1518 and Aruj Barbarossa was killed in the conflict. Following Aruj’s death, Hayreddin officially inherited the “Barbarossa” nickname and received his honorary name, Hayreddin, from the Arabic Khayr ad-Din, meaning “goodness of the faith” or “best of the faith”. Hayreddin Rises in Rank Hayreddin Barbarossa vowed to continue the fight, avenge Aruj’s death, and become the ruler of Algiers in his brother’s honor. In 1529, he made good on his promise and retook the Peñón of Algiers from the Spaniards. Four years later, he was appointed Grand Admiral of the Ottoman Navy by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. He led an embassy to France in the same year, and conquered Tunis in 1534. But perhaps his most famous battle was his decisive victory over the Holy League at Preveza in 1538.

He truly was a master of seas. Instead of using sailing ships, he decided to use 122 galleys against Pope Paul III’s European fleet of 300 sailing ships. Though the European fleet had the combined forces of Venice, Genoa, Spain, Portugal, Malta and the Papal States, Barbarossa’s galleys were driven by oars, and therefore not reliant on winds. This made them far more maneuverable than the sailing ships, especially in the islands and bays which were shielded from wind. Barbarossa was able to capture 30 European ships, sink 10, and take 3,000 Christian sailors as prisoners. Though 400 of his own men were killed in the battle, he was able to easily defeat the so-called “Holy League” of European countries and secure the whole of the Mediterranean for the Ottoman Empire. Throughout the course of his life, Hayreddin, was able to expand the Ottoman Empire beyond islands and seas. In 1545, he returned to his palace in Istanbul to retire and left his son, Hassan, in charge of his stations in Algiers and across the seas. He passed away peacefully on July 4, 1546, in his palace by the sea. He died a hero and was laid to rest in the Barbaros Türbesi -- a mausoleum in Istanbul (formerly Constantinople). It became a ritual for Turkish ships to pay tribute to his grave, and as they passed by, they would salute the brave sailor. Emily K. Alberts, who always thought the eye-patch / peg-leg combo was the total pirate-package, now knows it’s all about the beard, baby. Barbarossa’s epitaph reads: This is the tomb of the conqueror of Algiers and of Tunis, the fervent Islamic soldier of God, the Capudan Khair-ed-Deen Barbarossa, upon whom may the protection of God repose.

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Nov /Dec

Beach Drinks

Aruba Blue

1 oz blue curacao 1 oz coconut rum 2 oz pineapple juice 2 oz Sprite

Fill a hurricane glass halfway with ice cubes. Add the blue curacao and coconut rum to the glass. Slowly add the Sprite and pineapple juice to glass. Stir the drink and serve.

Jamaican Mistaican 1 oz. Vodka 1 oz. Midori (melon liqueur) Orange Juice A splash of 7-UP Maraschino Cherry Tiki Torch 2 parts Fireball Whisky 1 part Coconut Rum 1 part Pineapple Juice Mix. Chill. Shoot

Pour vodka into a glass filled with ice, fill almost with orange juice, add a splash of 7-UP, float Midori and stir gently. Garnish with cherry and a slice of orange or pineapple if desired.

Photo by Ibrahim Razzan

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Kismet Creations Inspirational wildlife artist targets a tropical market

Text by Nancy S. Moseley Photos courtesy of Nancy Blauers

Not every artist gets the request to make her subjects look drunk ... and thinks it might possibly be a good thing. “They liked me because they knew I could draw macaws. But then they asked: ‘Can you have them holding amargarita glass?’ and ‘Can youmake them look a little drunk?’ and I said ‘You betcha!’” Nancy Blauers laughs. “They” being Margaritaville Merchandising, the company behind the utopian artistry encircling Jimmy Buffett. Blauers grew up on the Connecticut shore, sailing the Long Island Sound and dreaming of a future of maritime pursuits. She remembers first hearing “Margaritaville” when she was lounging on a beach when she was 10 or 11 years old. At 13, she first visited Florida and felt an immediate visceral connection. “I had always dreamed of the tropics. It was that amazing place to be where everything would be

peaceful, and everything would be beautiful. That was my fantasy place,” Blauers comments. In 1986 she graduated from the School of Visual Arts in New York City with a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Illustration, though not your presumed two- dimensional type. Blauers had decided to explore sculpture as a form of illustration in an attempt to stand out above the rest. She taught herself how to intricately carve in wood because it was the cheapest medium for a pocket-conscious college student. “For my parents, it was the stuff of nightmares,” she relates. “They’d hear power tools going at all hours, and I’d come up from the basement covered in sawdust.” Her favorite piece, in an impressively amassed portfolio, is still a wood carving called “Egyptian Fruit Bats” that she did in college. “It launched me on the

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path to being a wildlife artist, but a very different wildlife artist.” In 1992, thanks to her creative penchant for wildlife and tropical art, she got a job at Harlequin Nature Graphics to paint wildlife designs for screen printing on apparel. She packed up her jeep and drove from Connecticut to Ft. Meyers, Fla., with her contemptuous, foul-mouthed parrot, Franko. It was a pivotal moment. By happenstance, the founder of Harlequin, Michael LaTona, had recently befriended Jimmy Buffett while the two occupied the same bird blind on Sanibel Island. They went on to join forces professionally and spearheaded the company that would eventually evolve into Margaritaville Merchandising. They liked Blauers because of her aforementioned gift at macaw illustrations; however, it was actually her wood carving of macaws that cinched the job offer. The efforts she made in college to distinguish herself were paying off. “I was at the helm of creating art for the stores and the venues. I designed everything from tee shirts to glassware, jackets for Jimmy’s pilots , tavern signs, sculptures, ceramics. Whatever they were looking for.” Chances are, if you’ve ever visited a Margaritaville restaurant or attended a Jimmy Buffett concert, you have enjoyed Blauer’s work. When the pandemic hit, after years of creating for someone else’s bottom line, Blauers decided to take a chance and go 100% freelance. “I wanted to start painting and sculpting as a fine artist again,” Blauers explains. Her work is animated, playful, multi- dimensional and vastly diverse.

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She’s painted murals on million-dollar cigarette boats and designed inlay tile work for pools in the shape of dolphins. She’s created full museum exhibits and painted the creature of the black lagoon drinking tiki drinks. In 2007, the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission selected her design for the Save the Manatee license plate. From dragons to hula girls to tipsy tiki scenes, she says: “Anything that gives me that vibration.” She is currently working on a new series starring pirate frogs called “Captain Croaker and the Caribbean Amphibians.” “I have found that if people laugh, they’ll buy it. How can I bring some joy into their lives?” And much like the stylings of Jimmy Buffet, “How can I make them escape a little bit?” Blauers has opened an Esty shop and is enthusiastically available for commission work. She may even take on a few art students to teach oil painting. She and her husband, Greg, occupy a 6-acre farm on the outskirts of Orlando. He owns Wop’s Hops Brewing Company in Sanford for which Blauers created all the branding

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and beer poster art. In his down time, he tries to ignore Franco’s unapologetic detestation (“Franco hates my husband,” she laughs). The two are avid international travelers and scuba divers, and Blauers recently joined a pop ensemble called Big Tiki and the Mai Tais, a three-piece band with two ukuleles and washtub bass. “It’s kind of come full circle. Starting out as an artist for Jimmy , then actually getting on stage and performing and being a part of the music scene . It’s such an interesting evolution .” After all, they are forms of art, forms of escapism. And as we know, when escaping one thing you often end up heading down a road heading somewhere else. The journey is just that much better when the buzz you catch is not from cocktails, but from hard work and circumstance. Nancy S. Moseley is a freelance writer who believes that happy hour at [any given bar] is pretty much as close as you can get to being at the right place at the right time. FIND NANCY BLAUERS Etsy: NancyBlauersArt Facebook: Nancy-Blauers-Art Email: nancyblauersart@gmail.com

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Palm Tree Protection Backyard Tiki Bar

how one man built a winter survival sanctuary in his garage

Text by Nancy S. Moseley Photos courtesy of Rich Barnes

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Most people who live in central Massachusetts where the winters could crack open a beer would relish a 3-car garage -- not only as a borderline necessity, but also perhaps as a status symbol of grown-up success. For Rich Barnes, however, the success benchmark was a bit different. His priorities were less about ‘keeping up with Joneses’ and more about sharing a toast with them. “I thought I could have more fun in here as a bar rather than a garage. It felt like it could be a cooler space. So the cars sit outside now, but that’s fine,” Barnes offers. Barnes, now in his mid-50s, grew up in the same central Mass. town, about 15 minutes west of Boston. He attended photography school in the western part of the state and, after a lackluster job search, decided to open his own studio, which has been in operation for 35 years. His wife, Kristen, is also a photographer. They met at school and circled back together several years

later at a photography convention. “It was ... ‘I’ll show you my studio if you show me yours,’” he comically recalls. And now, a Key West honeymoon, one combined photography business, four children and a slew of pets later, they have a 3-car garage. Barnes’ grandmother was a bartender and an avid traveler, with a particular penchant for Hawaii. She usually returned stateside bearing souvenirs and stories from the tropics, affording young Barnes a connection to the escapism of paradise. But the farming communities of Massachusetts left much to be desired for those who longed for all-things- tropical. Thankfully every few years the family would take a break from the usual New England camping vacation and drive down to Florida. “I wanted to bring home anything I could find that was coconuts or palm trees. Once I brought home a suitcase full of Spanish moss, then discovered it was full of bugs. But it didn’t matter, I wanted to make my own jungle at home.”

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Now the Barnes family tailors vacations around warm weather, sunshine and “anywhere with palm trees, fake or real!” They are Disney and cruise line fans, and almost defensively he assures: “No Alaskan cruises yet!” Most of his kids’ birthdays occur in the winter, so they most often get themed something contrarily tropical. Around 2015, Barnes was setting up for yet another beachy birthday in the middle of a nor’easter snowstorm and found himself daydreaming of an earlier trip to Disneyland when the family stopped by Trader Sam’s Enchanted Tiki Bar. “At the time I thought, this is cool, whoever designed this place understands me. That’s when I decided to make my own,” Barnes explains. The cars, once tucked happily in a toasty garage, were banished to endure the elements outside, and the tiki bar transformation began. Barnes took to the Internet for ideas and uncovered an underbelly of like-minded bar aficionados. He joined appropriate

Facebook groups and found out he was, ironically, on an island. “I’d like to be able to build a larger group of tiki enthusiasts in central Massachusetts, because there aren’t really a lot. Most people think, ‘why would you do this?’” It started simple, with the actual bar and a pool table. Then he pulled in bamboo props from his photography studio and, little by little, with more and more Internet research, thrift store, flea market and antique store scavenging, he began to build an oasis. He once drove 12 hours to buy a find. True to escapism, it can be more about the journey than the destination, and Barnes finds great joy in the search for the right tchotchkes. “A lot of the space is filled with stuff that most people would look at it and say ‘that’s the ugliest thing I’ve ever seen in my life,’” he laughs. The large tiki came from the back of a garage that was long pillaged from an old Tiki Kon restaurant abuzz in 1970s Boston. He even bought an entire private museum collection

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of Papua New Guinea art out of Long Island, N.Y., all to lend an on-theme tribal feel. There is one television, and if [insert big game] isn’t on, it usually broadcasts a loop of ocean waves and moonlight. “I’m not going to tell my wife how much it all cost,” he jokes. “But truthfully, she knows. She just doesn’t let you know she knows.” The walls are mostly old, weathered planks, installed to manufacture the freedom to hang things without concern for stud whereabouts. His eldest daughter has made several signs for the bar with inspiration from Disney Jungle Cruises, like “Tours Departing Daily.” “But mostly when I ask for help with something in the bar, they just groan.” The space is intricately intertwined, so to move just one thing is a huge undertaking. Despite the effort it takes to make a change, it is still the foundation on which tiki bar buffs operate. “When I look at it, I see changes coming. It’s always changing.”

The name, “Trader Dick’s,” is part in homage to the blueprint of Trader Sam’s and part reminiscent of a childhood where friends called him Rick, Rich or occasionally, Dick. As per Barnes family tradition, the first official gathering to occur in Trader Dick’s? “It was a probably a kid’s birthday party. Most of all, I wanted a place to sit in the middle of winter where it didn’t feel like it was the middle of winter in Massachusetts.” The next step is to construct an actual beach outside the tiki bar. Here’s hoping the sandy shore will go out back instead of down the driveway, or else the family roadster may get kicked to the actual curb. Alas, priorities. Nancy S. Moseley is a freelance writer who thinks she will start playing loops of ocean waves and moonlight in her house to set a more desirable ambience. It will sure beat the everyday, cacophonous loop of “Paw Patrol.”

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A Flag Fluttering Free Life

Text by Karl H. Kazaks Photos courtesy of Debbie Russell

gold flag flies from Gypsies Palace , Steve and Debbie Russell’s Endeavour 48 power catamaran. The flag indicates that the Russells completed the Great Loop, a multi-path waterway which circles the Eastern U.S. and includes the Mississippi River, the Atlantic Ocean, the Erie Canal, the Great Lakes, and passage under a fixed railroad A

bridge (19.7-foot clearance) on the Illinois River outside Chicago. “More people climb Mount Everest in a year than finish the Great Loop in a year,” Debbie says. “It’s that daunting of an experience! It was very exciting – every day was so different.” It was the lure of daily adventure which led the Russells to live full-time on the water five

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It was the lure of daily adventure which led the Russells to live full-time on the water five years ago

years ago, in the autumn of 2016. “Living on land, everything is routine,” she adds. “Living on a boat, you never know what wonderful thing is going to happen next. On the water, everyone is a friend. I have more friends now than I’ve had in my entire life.” Even during the covid challenges of 2020, life on a boat was a thrill. They sailed with their buddy boat, One Eyed Dog , travelling the waterways of the

U.S. “We were a 4-person family,” Debbie explains. “We could eat outside, and we were thirsty for live music!” Music – especially trop rock – is a particular pleasure of the Russells. They named their boat after the Jimmy Buffett song “Gypsies in the Palace.” This boat is the second cat the Russells have owned of that name – the first being a Leopard 47, which they sailed on the Great Loop.

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Expanding Living Space The Russells enjoyed their Leopard, but

Life on the Water Prior to moving full-time on water, Steve

decided to try another boat with a larger interior for bad weather. The Endeavor has 850 square feet of interior living space, including three staterooms and three heads. It has windows on all sides – for visibility and, when open, ventilation. The galley is a dream, with an island, dishwasher, propane stove, microwave, wine cooler, two refrigerators, freezer and ice maker. The Endeavour has a boat lift on its stern, which adds length and causes the boat sometimes to be referred to as a 50. The boat’s beam is 18 feet. The ship’s helm is enclosed, which is nice when they travel through areas with pesky insects. The draft of the boat is only three and a half feet, providing quite a bit of maneuverability in shallow water. Two Cummins QSB 6.7 engines with 425hp each power the boat, fed by a 1,000 gallon fuel tank. The cat can go up to 18 mph, but the fuel burn is more economical at lower speeds, so the Russells typically travel at 10 mph. “It’s spacious and stable, open, with lots of living space,” Debbie explains.

worked as a boat captain and yacht broker. Debbie would schedule her vacations around Steve’s journeys, choosing the timing of her holidays based on the details of Steve’s travels. “Being on the water with him when he was making yacht deliveries, I would see these people in the morning . . . they were so happy! I wanted to live on a boat. I used to drive a lot. I don’t miss being on the roads. We don’t even own a car, and when we rent one and drive, it’s scary on the interstates.” Steve still works as a buyer’s broker, and when Russells chart their course they often do so based on what trop rock festival they want to attend – like Tampa’s annual Music on the Bay. There, thanks to Gypsies Palace’s shallow draft, they can take the boat right up to the beach. Recently, the Russells attended the Boatyard Beach Bash in Annapolis. In addition to enjoying the music and food, they also met up with friends, meeting for the first time in person. “I run two Facebook groups for cats, one for

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Endeavours and one for power cats,” Debbie relates. “People reach out to me, asking for advice on the boating life. Sometimes we get together in person – for docktails - when I give them a boat tour.” When Debbie first moved to living on water, she wasn’t sure how she would take to the lifestyle, so she kept a bunch of furniture in storage. Five years later, she loves life aboard the power cat as much as ever. This winter, she is going to downsize her stored belongings and move a few things to a smaller storage unit. “We have no desire to be back on land. The Endeavour has great living space.” One of the Russells’ favorite things about the American coastal communities is exploring the country’s various cuisines. They love the clam pizza on

Staten Island, the fresh shrimp and fish on the Outer Banks, Joe Patti’s Seafood in Pensacola, the oysters in Baltimore. In Fort Myers, they like to catch blue crab, which Debbie uses to make crab cakes. Debbie is even planning an Endeavour rendezvous in February at Cayo Costa. If you feel like getting your gypsy on, head out and meet Steve and Debbie – or head out on the water and live the flag fluttering free life that the Russells enjoy every single day.

Their blog: coastaljourneys.com

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A Parrothead Hall of Famer

Michael Holly

Text by Emily K. Alberts Photos courtesy of Michael Holly

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Trudging through the bleak winters of Toledo, Ohio, Michael Holly was drawn to the island escapism that being a Parrothead provided him. “All of a sudden, I was transported from the concrete jungle to tropical paradise in the Caribbean. Jimmy Buffett’s music is just a never-ending treasure trove of experiences. It really is its own genre.” With 234 Buffett concerts under his belt, Holly is the unofficial G.O.A.T. of Parrotheads – the man is a living legend. “What can I say?” he laughs. “If something’s worth doing, it’s worth overdoing!” He has attended concerts on two continents, in six countries, in 27 states and 54 cities. So how did this all….happen? “I scored season tickets,” Holly quips. “I kid, of course, but it’s a nice analogy to keep perspective. In baseball, season ticket holders see 81 games per year, and seeing every Buffett concert in a year only puts me at about 31.” And for Holly, every “game” is a home game, and his team has never lost! “Beginning in ’89, I’d go to about one show a year, like a normal person, and I did that for about a decade until I realized I was having a really, really good time at those concerts – why was I only going once a year?” So, he started going regionally, all over Northwest Ohio, and then he decided he was going to try and attend Every. Single. Concert. “My wife loves all

of the traveling. She doesn’t quite understand my level of Parrothead passion, but she loves the places it takes her.” What started as a group of about 10-15 friends hopping on a bus to see local shows, grew to roughly 75-100 Parrotheads, flocking together all over the globe. “And it gets bigger every year!” Holly exclaims. “As far as I know, I’m the record holder, and my wingman is Craig Smith, a.k.a. “Private” (Smith was a Private in the U.S. Marines). “We met at Duke’s Bar in Hawaii one day before a Buffett concert, and we’ve since seen more than 125 shows together.” Holly started the tradition of writing the show number on his arm with a big, black Sharpie -- and many of his friends followed suit – on the off chance that if Jimmy was ever in the parking lot after a show, he might see them, wonder what all the numbers were about, and come over. And as luck would have it, on March 30, 2012, which happened to be the exact day of Holly’s 100th show, it happened! He and his friends finally got to meet Jimmy. After that, Jimmy’s camera crew would always be sure to find them during a show and put them on the big screen. But the true highlight of Holly’s “Jimmy Journey” would come later… As Holly continued to put in the daily grind of working as a stockbroker in Toledo, he realized that if

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he worked hard enough, he just might be able to turn his Parrothead pastime into a fulltime gig. “Jimmy doesn’t know it, of course, but he’s been kind of a mentor to me. His music is so rich with meaning, and he has inspired me to take chances in life. Not everything’s gonna work out, even Jimmy’s own Cheeseburger in Paradise restaurant idea didn’t quite work out, but he continued to try new things.” Holly decided to go for it, and he eventually started his own company. Once things took off, he sold that company and headed down to Costa Rica to open a beach bar! Holly paid Buffett proper homage, giving his restaurant the familiar moniker of Margaritaville . He and his wife bought a beach house – and even made it on an episode on House Hunters! Holly

put in 100 hours a week at the restaurant to ensure its success. And the hard work paid off. “So get this, we were hanging out after a concert on Long Island and there was a film crew, but not the usual film crew that would pan over to our group during a concert to get us on the big screen with all of our arm “tattoos” … this was a different crew.” As it turns out, this film crew was making an Indie film about hardcore Buffett fans! “I told them they had hit the jackpot and to look no further.” But, of course, the crew was hesitant and replied: “Sure, bud, everyone says they are Jimmy’s BIGGEST fan…” But luckily, they saw Holly a few more times across the country, and when they finally saw him again

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Michael Holly

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in a DIFFERENT country (France) that really sealed the deal. “Three weeks later they called me and said they wanted to feature me in this movie, Parrot Heads, and they wanted to film it at my restaurant!” Holly couldn’t say yes fast enough and hopped on the next flight to Costa Rica to meet with the film crew at his surfside Margaritaville restaurant. *Side note, did you know that “Margaritaville” is the most profitable song of all time? Like, in the history of the WORLD? Once the movie had finished the production stages, Jimmy himself would end up seeing it and he was totally on board … so much so that he wanted to use the footage of Holly hanging out at his own Margaritaville restaurant as a backdrop for his concerts for the entire 2016 year! “I didn’t tell my friends, so when we were all at the concert and the footage came up on the screen, they started recognizing Costa Rica, and Tamarindo (where the bar is located) and then my bar, and then lo and behold I come up riding a horse on the big screen and they were just blown away!” Parrot Heads premiered in 2017 and can be seen on Amazon Prime and Netflix. “I guess the takeaway is that if you work really hard, and love what you do, things will start to happen.” Presently, he is producing a movie with that same film crew. His favorite Jimmy Buffett song is “Last

Mango in Paris” because the end of the song truly speaks to him.

I ate the last mango in Paris Took the last plane out of Saigon Took the first fast boat to China And Jimmy, there’s still so much to be done.

“I still don’t know what I wanna do with my life,” Holly remarks, “but it’s pretty cool to think this crazy passion of mine has taken me all over the world.” Written by Emily Kathleen Alberts, who is still searchin’ for her lost shaker of salt. Where did the term Parrothead come from? On June 28, 1985, Mr. Buffett was playing a show at the Timberwolf Amphitheater at Kings Island. Local legend states that year the big giveaway item at the park’s carnival booths were giant inflatable parrots. The crowd, wearing Hawaiian shirts and carrying parrots was a sea of color to then Coral Reefer Band member, Timothy Schmit. He looked at the crowd and coined them Parrotheads, a play off the Grateful Dead’s fan base, the Deadheads.

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Explore Hidden Secrets of the Lowcountry

“The folks at Coastal Expeditions will have you so mesmerized…you won’t realize all the teaching taking place.” - Charleston Magazine

Text and Photos by Jo Clark

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64,000-acre Cape Romain Wildlife Refuge. It was classified as Category I, a classification reserved for the most pristine areas, untouched by humans. Even now, his words ring in my ears, “Anything you take onto the island, bring it back with you.” Bull Island still calls my name, and Crolley is still there to ferry me over. Not only a naturalist, now a Captain, he owns Coastal Expeditions. His love for the area shows in his words and his eyes. Garden & Gun magazine named Crolley “one of South Carolina’s most knowledgeable naturalists.”

Picture blue skies, puffy clouds, sandy beaches, eagles soaring overhead, maritime forests that extend to the edge of the Atlantic, whelk shells and sand dollars. Can you describe a more perfect day? Escape to a deserted island, safe in the knowledge that the pontoon will pick you up at the end of the day. Memories drift by on the breeze. I imagine a tune in my head: “Nothing Could be Finer Than to be in Carolina.” I remember a gorgeous spring day 25 years ago when I fell in love with Bull Island. Naturalist Chris Crolley described it as the gem of

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Originally from Camden, S.C., he started leading tours in 1993, sharing his knowledge of the 22- mile refuge three miles off the mainland. When he had the opportunity to buy the company in 2002, he did not hesitate. You know the saying: “If you love what you do, you’ll never work a day in your life.”

Tours Change With the Seasons — and the Tides

Changing plans with the tide sounds like a cliché. But when you live on the coast, you learn to consider the tide—or you end up 10 miles downstream stuck on a sandbar! The moon’s phases, the wind, the

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hiking through a longleaf pine ecosystem looking for red-cockaded woodpeckers. Then there is paddling through an ancient bald cypress swamp, camping in Francis Marion National Forest with experienced guides, and time at Hampton Plantation.

Types of Tours

If boat tours aren’t active enough, one can sign up for kayak, paddleboard or canoe tours (and rent the needed equipment), join a hike, or a combination of several of these activities. If you can think it up, they can develop a plan. As the website says: “It’ll be fun no matter how you get there.” Activities are available at six locations, most within an hour of Charleston. A naturalist accompanies each expedition, eagerly sharing their knowledge of the area. Coastal Expeditions offers equipment rental if you want to explore on your own. In the spring of 2021, I joined Coastal Expeditions on a barrier island trip to see where pelicans nest. On that trip, I met Gayle Bryan, who had recently taken a basin trip on the Edisto River. Recounting that day, she relates: “We paddled right up to a bald eagle! I still get excited thinking about it.” What keeps people coming back? Gayle expressed it best: “The combination of adventure, exercise, learning and experiencing new things is a big win for me. The guides strike a great balance between fun and education. Coastal takes me places that I would never see on my own. That’s what keeps me coming back.” Some of the tours are just too popular to change. Well, except for the times—you know, the tides and all. The Bull Island Ferry runs four or five days a week. Most trips are dock-to-dock, but when the tides are right, they offer a beach drop, which saves you a mile-long walk across the island. Don’t Mess With a Good Thing

approaching storm fronts, along with the 4-times-daily tide change, it all gets overwhelming for a novice. Enter Chris Crolley and the crew at Coastal Expeditions, reminiscent of an old Greyhound bus ad: “Sit back and leave the driving to us.” Currently, Coastal Expeditions runs a tour of the North and South Santee River Delta and surrounding blackwater creeks. This time of year, there will be ospreys, swallow-tailed kites, alligators and dolphins in this unique ecosystem. The boat will dock at Hampton Plantation, a state and national historic landmark, for a guided walk. Hampton was the home of Archibald Rutledge, the first poet laureate of S.C., and Hampton Plantation inspired his works, including Home by the River. Also offered is a 3-day trip through the Santee Delta. The trip provides sunrises on the Santee, touring and learning about blackwater, brackish and saltwater ecosystems, and

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